Seafarer’s Pilgrimage

People wait on a rock to be brought back to Carna by local fishermen off the coast of Galway, Ireland, July 16, 2016. Seafarers and other members of the Carna community make an annual pilgrimage to MacDara's Island, home to a 6th Century oratory, to attend a mass for St. MacDara, the patron saint of fishermen. The pilgrimage is believed to keep seafarers safe throughout the year. REUTERS/Clodagh Kilcoyne ?

People wait on a rock to be brought back to Carna by local fishermen off the coast of Galway, Ireland, July 16, 2016. Seafarers and other members of the Carna community make an annual pilgrimage to MacDara’s Island, home to a 6th Century oratory, to attend a mass for St. MacDara, the patron saint of fishermen. The pilgrimage is believed to keep seafarers safe throughout the year. REUTERS/Clodagh Kilcoyne

CLODAGH KILCOYNE 
July, 2016

It is said that people don’t come home for Christmas to the small western Irish village of Carna, they come back for St. MacDara’s Day.

On that day, every July 16, hundreds make a pilgrimage off the coast of Gaelic-speaking Carna to tiny, uninhabited St. MacDara’s Island, to a celebration of mass and blessing of boats. It will keep them safe throughout the year, locals believe.

St. MacDara, the patron saint of seafarers, is believed to have built the small church on the island in the sixth century. After mass, the locally crafted boats, known as Galway Hookers, bow their sails in the direction of the church three times to bless the year ahead.

“It is like a second Christmas half way through the year,” said Cliona Ni Chualain, the organiser of MacDara’s festival. Her family own a Galway Hooker built in 1895 called ‘Blath na hOige’, meaning ‘Flower of Youth’.

“I’ve done it since I was a baby and for us it’s a family gathering, a community gathering. It’s pretty special. And when you’re on the island there is this feeling of calmness. I wouldn’t be a practicing Catholic but there is something very, very spiritual about it.”

Local fisherman Johnny Cloherty reckons the pilgrimage, one of the few remaining snapshots of Irish yesteryear, has kept him safe for the last 40 years in the Atlantic Ocean, where he harvests seaweed and fishes for lobster and crab.

“It does yeah, definitely,” said Cloherty, 58, from nearby Mweenish Island. “I’d be out there in the winter and keep near that island (MacDara’s). It’s a good thing.”

But like many in small rural parts of the country, Cloherty, who starts working at 5 a.m. each day and doesn’t finish until 10 p.m., has seen young people leave the area in increasing numbers in search of jobs and a different lifestyle.

There are now only about 30 Galway Hookers left and the days of all 30 trawling the western Irish coastline together are fading with fewer and fewer crew to go around.

“I don’t think the young people will be going out fishing. It’s sad. Say another 10 years, who will be out there? Nobody knows,” Cloherty said.

Before you continue: please know that reader-supported Facts and Opinions is employee-owned and ad-free. We are on an honour system and survive only because readers like you pay at least 27 cents per story.  Contribute below, or find more details here. Thanks for your interest and support.

 ~~~

Facts and Opinions is a boutique journal of reporting and analysis in words and images, without borders. Independent, non-partisan and employee-owned, F&O is funded by our readers. It is ad-free and spam-free, and does not solicit donations from partisan organizations. To continue we require a minimum payment of .27 for one story, or a sustaining donation. Details here; donate below. Thanks for your interest and support.

F&O’s CONTENTS page is updated each Saturday. Sign up for emailed announcements of new work on our free FRONTLINES blog; find evidence-based reporting in Reports; commentary, analysis and creative non-fiction in OPINION-FEATURES; and image galleries in PHOTO-ESSAYS. If you value journalism please support F&O, and tell others about us.

The Wider Image: Seafarers' pilgrimage to MacDara's Island